Château Troplong Mondot, Grand Cru St Emilion

This is Aymeric de Gironde’s fourth vintage here; he understands more each year about this powerful terroir. Uniquely, the vines are on uneroded original clay (not on the more-common eroded limestone) so getting depth and strength from the wine is never an issue. The delicacy of 2021 is a perfect foil, adding light and shade to the usual intensity. The bouquet is currently shy, the palate tight and interleaved – showing the wine’s brooding richness before crisp aromatics of cherry and thyme emerge. This is potentially outstanding. Drink 2028-2045.